A 50-Year-Old Vineyard Just Went Toe-to-Toe with Burgundy
A $37 bottle of Virginia Chardonnay came within a single vote of beating a $75 Burgundy in a blind tasting for Washington, DC sommeliers this autumn. The Virginia wine was Pearmund Cellars' "50th Anniversary" Chardonnay, made from 50-year-old vines in Fauquier County.
For anyone who follows Virginia wine country, the result is a pleasure to read. For anyone thinking about owning a piece of it, it may mean even more.
The tasting
The event was organized by Matt Fitzsimmons, the writer behind the Virginia wine blog Wine Trails and Wanderlust. It was filmed for Chrisa Giorgi's documentary on Virginia wine, "We the Wine People." The venerable London wine merchant Berry Bros. & Rudd hosted the sommeliers at its DC office.
The panel tasted nine Chardonnays blind, in three flights of three:
Seven from Virginia:Â Ankida Ridge, Michael Shaps "Wild Meadow," Pollak, Chatham Steel, Linden Hardscrabble, DuCard "Whetstone Run" and Pearmund Cellars "50th Anniversary"
Two from France: an Albert Bichot Pouilly-Fuissé and a Louis Jadot Chablis
The sommeliers had two jobs. They had to pick their two favorite wines and identify which two bottles came from France.
The results
Two wines pulled ahead of the field:
Place | Wine | Origin | Price | Votes |
1st | Albert Bichot Pouilly-Fuissé 2021 | Burgundy, France | ~$75 | 6 |
2nd | Pearmund Cellars "50th Anniversary" | Virginia | ~$37 | 5 |
3rd (tie) | Linden Hardscrabble 2021 | Virginia | ~$55 | — |
3rd (tie) | Louis Jadot Chablis 2021 | Burgundy, France | ~$25 | — |
Pearmund was the panel's favorite Virginia wine. Tasters described it as toasty, savory and balanced, and they were happy with its oak because the wine carried it so well. Few in the room had heard of the producer before that afternoon.
The sommeliers proved sharp at telling the two countries apart. Eight of ten spotted the Pouilly-Fuissé as French, and five of ten identified the Chablis. When they guessed wrong, they picked Pearmund, Linden or Shaps, the three Virginia wines they judged most Burgundian in style.
Why it matters
This tasting is one more sign that Virginia wine belongs in the same conversation as the Old World. Earlier this year, Virginia Governor's Cup Wine Director Frank Morgan staged a blind comparison in Paris, close to the 50th anniversary of the famous Judgment of Paris. French judges leaned toward the Virginia wines there, and one of the Chardonnays poured in DC took top honors.
For buyers, that recognition is real value. A great vineyard takes decades to mature, and old vines like Pearmund's cannot be replanted overnight. Neither can a brand that has spent years earning the trust of collectors, critics and loyal visitors. When a $37 bottle holds its own against a $75 Burgundy, it shows what the land and the people behind it can produce.
A rare opportunity
Pearmund Cellars is part of the Meriwether Vineyards Group portfolio, which I am representing for sale with Hunt Country Sotheby's International Realty. The portfolio includes:
Pearmund Cellars
Pearmund Farmstore
Effingham Manor & Winery
Vint Hill Craft Winery
It is offered as a full turnkey sale, including the real estate, inventory, equipment, brand names and goodwill. Opportunities to acquire established Virginia wine brands, mature vineyards and the land beneath them in a single transaction rarely come along.
If you would like to learn more, or simply want to talk about Virginia wine country, I would be delighted to hear from you.
Peter Leonard-Morgan | Associate Broker | Hunt Country Sotheby's International Realty | 2 W. Washington Street, Middleburg, Virginia 540.687.8500
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